QUETICO PROVINCIAL PARK – Punching through a few inches of snow, I paused at the end of the portage trail. As far as I could see was open water. Snow and ice skirted the edges near where we stood. Due to thick brush and a narrow shoreline, it was impossible to safely scout. The small river disappeared around a bend. The choice was clear. We needed to change our route.

For the past couple of years I’ve been itching to do a winter camping adventure that would be less about cozy basecamps; more about covering big miles. After finding some interested friends, we started to make plans. Poring over maps in a coffee shop, we dreamt about route ideas and where to go. As our fingers followed imaginary lines of travel, our minds filled with the wildlife, pictographs and pine-studded islands that we might pass along the way. Someone suggested crossing the border.

Eventually, we decided on a route that started in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCA), looping into Quetico Provincial Park. There’s something magical about heading into a place you’ve never been; where moose and bear outnumber humans, and solitude reigns.

As we continued to define our ideal experience, we decided to travel fast and light. Well, fast and light for winter camping. Covering more miles meant smaller sleds and pared-down gear. However, winter is still winter, so we packed with safety in mind.