Paddlers navigating the BWCA. Photo by John Gebretatose
Feeling Truth in the Boundary Waters

By John Gebretatose
In May 2023, a group of nine adventurers set out on a journey deep into the heart of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Our trip was about delving into a profound journey of self-discovery, cultural exchange, and the incredible power of human connections.
Initially hesitant to join this adventure, I was persuaded by a Black friend who invited me along. I didn’t want her to be the only Black person out there, so I joined her for support. To my surprise, two other Black individuals in our group of eight shattered stereotypes and balanced the racial representation. It was a delightful revelation that affirmed that Black people enjoy the outdoors as much as anyone else. Throughout our journey, all eight of us—four Black individuals, four white individuals, (plus the dog)—shared a love for the great outdoors as we pitched our tents, gathered around the campfire, and exchanged stories under the starry sky.
Felt all emotions
As we loaded our canoes and ventured into the BWCA’s peaceful waters, this mix of excitement and nervousness floated around. For three of us, myself included, this journey was completely new territory—a blank canvas for our adventures. It was our first canoe camping trip. Leaving behind the hustle of Minneapolis for the calm of the wilderness felt like a total transformation. We were in good hands with our trip organizer, and in good spirits.
About 15 minutes in, we spotted some strong currents up ahead. One of the canoes decided to check it out while my canoe partner and I watched closely. They returned and warned us about the tricky passage, suggesting it might be manageable with some quick paddling and momentum. But as they attempted to navigate through, they ended up tipping over. Capsized. Into the water they went. It was a tense moment. All we could do from our canoe was calmly guide them back to safety with our voices. The water was icy, but those three campers who took the plunge showed real courage, dealing with the scare like champs.
As a group, we shook off the jitters from witnessing our friends’ mishap. One thing we discovered was that the keys to the vehicle that got us to the edge of the BWCA went missing in the incident. Thankfully, we had an emergency beacon that had the capability to send text messages to our friends back in the Twin Cities. We decided to text home for a new set of keys to be sent by mail. Without the keys, how we’d be getting home after the canoe adventure would weigh heavy on our minds throughout our trip to the BWCA. We needed to have a spare set sent to an outfitter on the Gunflint Trail. And that’s exactly what we did.
Huge credit to those three who took the tumble. It’s a tale worth sharing, but one standout moment for me was when one of them chose to keep going with a smile, despite the scary ordeal. That burst of bravery and positivity lit up the whole group, propelling us forward with renewed energy. And onward we went, fueled by their fearless spirit.

Photo courtesy of John Gebretatose
From Urban Chaos to Natural Harmony
Picture this: You’re stuck in the urban jungle, dodging taxis and inhaling more exhaust fumes than oxygen. But suddenly, BOOM! You find yourself in the Boundary Waters, where the only gridlock involves a family of beavers arguing over who gets the best log. Say goodbye to skyscrapers and hello to towering trees because, in this wilderness, the only high-rise is your tent. And get this: The water’s so clean, you can sip it straight from the lake like you’re at some fancy bottled-water tasting event. Mother Nature’s just sitting back, sipping her version of a mojito and saying, “Welcome to the real wildlife, folks!”
Respect for Indigenous Lands
As we navigated through the labyrinthine waterways of the Boundary Waters, reflections on the indigenous peoples who had called this land home for centuries arose. The presence of the Anishinaabe people was felt in every tree, rock, and ripple in the water. As a Black Eritrean immigrant whose land was colonized by Italy and then later met with a 30-year civil war against Ethiopia until 1993, I could understand the connection to the land that indigenous communities have.
Injustice and Genocide
It is impossible to speak of the beauty of the Boundary Waters without acknowledging the painful history of injustice and genocide inflicted upon the Native American tribes who called this land home. The Anishinaabe people, along with other indigenous tribes, have faced displacement, violence, and cultural erasure at the hands of European settlers and the United States government. This struggle for recognition and justice resonates deeply, echoing the ongoing fights against oppression and injustice worldwide.
Preserving Culture and Heritage
After the trip, I learned about the Anishinaabe people. I learned that despite the injustices they have endured, the Anishinaabe people have persevered, preserving their culture, traditions, and way of life for future generations. Traditional games, such as lacrosse and snow snake, carry cultural significance and teach important values and skills. These games serve as a testament to the resilience and strength of the Anishinaabe people, reminding us of the importance of preserving and honoring indigenous cultures and traditions.
Treaty Rights
I learned that the Anishinaabe people have treaty rights with the Canadian and U.S. governments, recognizing their sovereignty and certain rights to hunt, fish, and gather on traditional lands. These rights are not mere concessions or privileges—they are legal obligations that uphold the sovereignty and dignity of indigenous peoples. Yet, despite these treaty rights, the Anishinaabe people continue to face challenges and barriers to exercising their inherent rights and responsibilities as stewards of the land.
Finding the Good Stuff
So, amidst the jaw-dropping scenery and heart-pounding adventures, we found these little pockets of pure Zen and gratitude. Picture this: We’re chilling by the campfire, stars twinkling overhead, just shooting the breeze. All the walls we have up to survive just vanished into thin air, leaving us with nothing but good vibes and a shared love for roasted marshmallows and hot beverages.
And let’s remember the epic games we had in that big tent with the light, far away from the bugs. I’m talking intense rounds of dice games, the werewolf game, and maybe even a dramatic card game. It was our little oasis of fun, where laughter drowned out the buzz of mosquitoes, and the only competition was who could tell the funniest joke. With our mix of quirky personalities and a knack for stealing the spotlight, every moment was its little masterpiece.
Just Chilling
Now imagine this: We’re all sprawled out, catching some rays at the campsite, when suddenly we’re treated to a surprise guest appearance by none other than a hummingbird. We were all knocked out for our afternoon siestas, but later, we were like, “Did anyone else catch that little guy buzzing by?” It was like a gentle reminder from Mother Nature that good times were ahead.
Honestly, the wildlife party never stopped. We had everything from majestic bald eagles showing off their flying skills to beavers putting on a water show. The beavers would swim back and forth from wherever they were coming from to wherever they were going. But the real standout? That lone loon, belting out tunes like it was auditioning for the Broadway musical role of their life. Its calls echoed across the lake, giving us all a moment to pause and appreciate the beauty of the natural world. And get this: That loon wasn’t afraid to paddle right up next to me in my canoe like we were old pals catching up. It was one of those moments where you can’t help but feel a deep connection to everything around you, even if it’s just a bird doing its thing.

Photo courtesy of John Gebretatose
Feasting and Fellowship
Dining in the great outdoors, we didn’t settle for anything less than culinary excellence. You can almost taste it: tender meats, kissed by the flames of our campfire until they practically melt in your mouth. Vegetables so vibrant and flavorful they could rival a garden in full bloom. And stews, simmering away in their pot, thick and hearty enough to anchor a ship in stormy seas. But here’s the kicker: These were no ordinary campfire meals. No, sir. They were the brainchild of our camping trip organizer, a culinary wizard whose expertise transformed each dish into a masterpiece worthy of a Michelin star.
Every bite was a symphony of flavors that danced across our taste buds like a well-rehearsed ballet. As we told stories and shared laughter, it was as if each meal became a metaphor for our journey together—a testament to the bonds we forged and the memories we created. I was blown away that humans could make good food in the wilderness. I know what it says about me, and I’ve accepted that about my reality.
In the flickering firelight, amidst the crackle of flames and the scent of wood smoke, we savored the food and the moments shared with good friends. We shared our dreams. We discussed what we wanted to do with our lives when we returned home. In those fleeting instants, we discovered that true nourishment isn’t just found on our plates but in the laughter, camaraderie, and shared experiences that make life worth living. Our job was clear: It was to savor every bite of this wild and wonderful journey unapologetically.
A Journey of Self-Discovery
As the journey drew to a close and the group reluctantly paddled back to civilization, a profound sadness was felt at the thought of leaving the enchanted wilderness behind. I was just getting the hang of it all. Yet we also knew that its impact would stay forever. It was a journey of self-discovery, cultural exchange, and spiritual renewal. This journey reaffirmed my belief in the power of diversity, empathy, and connection to transcend boundaries and unite us all. This journey allowed me to fall in love with silence.
Carrying the Spirit of the Boundary Waters Forward
Reflecting on the adventure, gratitude was felt for the memories created, the challenges overcome, and the connections forged. In the Boundary Waters, more than just breathtaking landscapes were discovered amidst the pristine beauty of the natural world. The true essence of human connection was unearthed, transcending barriers of culture, background, and experience. Our paddles propelled us forward and inward, fostering a sense of unity and harmony with the soul of the wilderness. We were one with nature, and it felt good. I had more than enough evidence I was one with the wilderness, from how close that loon was to me, or in the courage we found when we jumped from the high-up rocky ledge into the water.

John swimming in the BWCA. Submitted photo
A Boundary Waters Odyssey
From navigating twisting waterways to sharing belly-aching laughter around the crackling campfire, every moment of our journey was a testament to the indomitable spirit of adventure and the incredible power of togetherness.
Sure, our trip could have been smoother sailing. We faced challenges that tested and pushed us to our limits. But you know what? We didn’t just survive; we thrived. By banding together and overcoming those obstacles, we emerged stronger, tougher, and tighter-knit than ever before. It’s like they say, what doesn’t break you only makes you paddle harder.
And let me tell you, amidst all the ups and downs, the Boundary Waters became more than just a backdrop for our adventure—it became a sanctuary. Out there, in the middle of nowhere, everything that usually divides us just faded away, leaving nothing but pure humanity.
As we reluctantly paddled our way back to the real world, the spirit of the Boundary Waters stayed with us, whispering in our ears and guiding us along our respective paths with a newfound sense of purpose and perspective. And that perspective unites us as fellow travelers on this wild and wonderful journey called life.
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